Tourist Places
Karakorum Highway (KKH): Also known as the “eight wonder” of the world, this grand highway connects Pakistan to China, twisting through the three mighty ranges of the world, the Karakorams, the Himalayas and the Pamirs – and follows the ancient Silk Route along the Indus, Gilgit and Hunza Rivers up the Chinese border at the Khunjerab Pass where it concludes in the Taklamakan Desert after winding through the Pamirs and Kashgar districts.
Thakot Bridge: The first evidence of Chinese influence on the KKH is Thakot Bridge, 123 kilometers and about two and a half hours from Abbotabad. Like other bridges on the KKH, it is a graceful arch of white cement, its balustrade decorated with carved lions and lanterns and its side walls with pastel butterflies and flowers.
Besham is a major village cut into the hillside above the Indus along the Karakoram Highway. Half way between Islamabad and Gilgit, Besham has become a hub of travelers due to its strategic cross-roads joining the Swat, Gilgit and Hazara divisions. Though it is mainly populated with the upright Kohistanis, one finds a blend of faces from various parts of the Northern Country.
Chilas is a major town on the upper course of the Indus and a gateway to Gilgit, Hunza, Skardu, Nanga Parbat and Kaghan Valleys. It’s ancient name was “Silvata”, a Sunsikrit word which meant Rock or Stone. The name went in vogue because of the 06th and 08th centuries carvings and paintings on the nearby boulders at the banks of the Indus.
Gilgit is the Capital of Northern Pakistan and a thriving frontier town that has expanded rapidly to include over 40,000 inhabitants since the Karakoram Highway was opened in 1978. It sits in a wide irrigated bowl 1500 meters above sea level at the Eastern end of the Gilgit Valley. The quaint little town of Gilgit has a cluster of interesting places in it short radius, including a beautiful rock carving of Buddha, a victory monument of Taj Mughal, built 700 years ago and the longest suspension bridge in Asia ( 600 ft long ) The favorite sport in Gilgit is Polo, which the locals claim originated here. It is a more rugged style than the sedate variety known in the plains. The polo tournament held in the 1st two weeks of November is a festive occasion and attracts a large number of spectators.
Kargah is famous for its huge rock carving of Lord Buddha. This sculpture was carved in seventh century. A monastery, 03 stupas and Gilgit manuscripts were also found in the vicinity between 1931-39. They are now housed in London, Delhi, Rome and Karachi. The interesting legend behind this sculpture narrates – the villagers asked a passing saint to help them get rid of a man- eater ogress called Yakhshini who lived at Kargah. The saint succeeded in pinning her to the rock and declared she won,t bother them for as long as he was alive, however, if they buried him at the foot of the rock, she would never be free. So the villagers killed the saint and buried him below the rock. The Yakhshini is still slave and villagers are now safe.
Gilgit Bazaar is famous for its handicrafts such as woolen gowns known as chughas, waist coats, shoes, musical instruments, silver jewelry, caps, woolen rugs and embroideries. The Gilgit town has also become a major dry port for trade between Pakistan and China through Khunjerab Pass. Due to this dramatic reform one can easily purchase China wares, paintings, silk clothes, glass and various other Chinese products of excellent quality.
Chinar Bagh (garden): where trees as much as 300 years old haughtily overlook the Gilgit river. This beautiful park is adorned with a bronze ibex mounted on a tall marble pillar. The monument was built to pay tribute to the local soldiers who sacrificed their lives for the liberation of their motherland.
Ghizer Valley: The 210 kms long road to Shandur Pass via Ghizer Valley is slightly more than a dirt track cut into cliff face on the south bank of the river. Passing through the former kingdoms of Punial and Gupis, with Ishkoman and Yasin up side valleys to the North, it connects all tiny village oasis with Gilgit town.
Ishkoman Valley: The Ishkoman valley runs north to south to join the Gilgit river at Gakuch, and divides the Karakoram Range from the Hindu Kush. Incorporated in to Pakistan in 1972, Ishkoman was another of the little principalities of the Northern Areas; a vassal of Chitral for the past few centuries. The ex-raja still lives at the capital, Chatorkhand. The population is mostly Ismaili and is the home of an important religious leader. Most people speak Khowar, Shina and Wakhi.
Naltar: An area of alpine meadows and forests 3000 meters above sea level and surrounded by snow-capped mountains, is the loveliest full-day outing from Gilgit. It is 43 kilometers–about two hours drive from Gilgit. Hidden in the mountains, up a dramatic barren gorge 19 kilometers long, Naltar valley is surprisingly green and lush, and heavily wooded with pine, spruce, birch, rowan and juniper. A quirk in the climatic conditions gives Naltar about 410 millimeters or 16 in of rainfall a year, more than three times that of Gilgit.
Punial: The fist kingdom to the west of Gilgit is Punial, which encompasses 12 villages and has a population of about 18,000. Its inhabitants call it ‘the place where heaven and earth meet’. Its capital is Sher Qila, 35 kilometers from Gilgit, on the north bank of the Gilgit River. Sher Qila means Lion’s Fort, so cold in winter, so is best visited in spring and autumn.
Phander Lake is connected by a perilous jeep track via Shandur Pass and Gilgit Valley. At an altitude of 3,734 meters, the historic Shandur Pass has been used by the traders for centuries for trading silk between China, Gilgit, Afghanistan and Persia. The perilous jeep road connects to a wide plateau adorned with two serene lakes and the highest Polo Field in the world. The annual Polo tournament played between the Gilgitis and Chitralis in summer is a festive occasion and attracts spectators from all over the world. Also called the “Angler’s Paradise”, the serene turquoise colored Phander Lake is full of rainbow and snow trouts. The lake is surrounded by lush green meadows and plantations. This serene lake allows one forget the bumpy and trying jeep journey
Shandur Pass: This picturesque lush green plateau is located at an altitude of 3,734 meters above sea level and it is 12 hours from Gilgit. It is locked by snow from November to May. The first European traveler across the pass, colonel William Lockhart, referred to it as a plateau. This was the route taken by British soldiers on the march from Gilgit to relieve the Siege of Chitral in April 1895. The pass presented considerable difficulties, according to Lieutenant W Benyon, quoted by John Keay in The Gilgit Game.
Hunza : Eric Shipton’s “The ultimate manifestation of mountain grandeur” the Legendary Hunza – whose very name is overwhelming is known for its towering snow covered peaks, creeping glaciers, fragrant apricot orchards and the longevity of its people. Lord Curson noted that “The little State of Hunza contains more summits of over 20,000 ft than there are of over 10,000 ft in the entire Alps”.
Altit Fort: Perched on a sheer rocky cliff of 1000 ft, it overlooks the Hunza River and renders a picturesque view of the entire valley. This fort is approximately 900 years old and was made by the artisans from Baltistan.The fort has just been renovated and houses a wonderful museum rich in local artifacts and preserved history.
Baltit Fort is over 450 years old. This was built by a princess who married to the reigning MIR and brought with her from Baltistan, a few masons, carpenters and craftsmen to build this fort as part of her Dowry. It stands on a steep cliff edge; behind the fort is the deep ravine of the Ultar stream. Its a curious rambling old palace with 53 rooms scattered on three stories. It contains guest rooms, prisons, storerooms, kitchens and Queen’s apartments. The museum room has a collection of weapons and drums. This fort also has a magnificient museum which houses priceless artifacts of this historic region.
Duikar is the highest point in Karimabad where one can take a four wheel drive jeep. This spot presents an awe inspiring bird eye view of the whole Karimabad with magnificent view of Rakaposhi, Diran and Golden Peak. The sunset and sun rise are the most spectacular to be seen from this point. This towering view point also houses a unique stone jungle with natural figures of many birds and mammals. One such rock presents a perfect statue of an Eagle.
Nagar Valley: Another “princely state” across Hunza. Inhabited by the colorful and peaceful Shia Muslims, this spectacular valley domains blossoming fruit orchards and multi terraced fields irrigated by the rich mineral laden waters of the Hispar, Trivor, Barpu, Bualtar and the Silkiang Glaciers. The jeep road ends at Hopar, a magnificent bowl, terraced and fertile, with excellent views of Miar Peak, Golden Peak and Malubiting. The Bualtar Glacier snouts here and is one of the two valley glaciers of the world racing forward. Its speed is incredibly fast @ 20 centimeters (8 inch) per day.
Gulmit: The capital of Gojal, 8 km past Shishkut Bridge is a fertile plateau 2500 M high, with irrigated fields on either side of the road. Gulmit is also reckoned as the prettiest town of Hunza. Sightseeing in and around Gulmit may include visits to the Gulmit Village, the Old House and the Carpet Weaving Center. Other places in the vicinity are the Borit Lake and Ghulkin Glacier.
Shimshal Valley: Also known as the epitome of remote inhabited areas in the Karakorams. The domain of the Largest Glaciated region on Earth, with the greatest geological upheavals steeped in the Myths of Spiritualism seems no way of this world. Named after the famous Muslim Saint, Shah Shamse of Tabrez, who migrated through this valley from China to Multan, was declared as the Epitome of remote inhabitance by the local Rulers and remained a maroon for the local outlaws for over centuries.
Passu: A fascinating land with an amazing diversity of places, people and customs, Passu is the mixing bowl of ancient civilization and dream of nature lovers, is well known about its extraordinary contrast of landscapes of the world. Passu is one of the most beautiful village of Pakistan . From times, immemorial the village has been promising Mountainous resort. Situated in the spectacular karakoram Mountains on the old silk route 150 km from Gilgit in the west banks of Hunza River and border on China.
Khunjerab Pass: Bypassing Gulmit, a fertile plateau with irrigated fields on either side of the KKH, we drive to Passu, a setting off point for climbers for the Batura, Passu, Kuk and Lupghar Groups. Located under the shadows of Shispar and Passu Cones, the fabulous trek to the legendary Shimshal too begins from Passu. From the outskirts of Passu, 30 Kms before Sust, (immigration check post) begins the Khunjerab National Park, the natural habitat of the endangered Marco Polo Sheep and Snow Leopard.
Baltistan lies north of Indian-held Kashmir along the Indus River between the Karakoram Mountains and the uninhabited Deosai Plateau. Skardu, its capital, is the starting-point for some of the best trekking and mountaineering in the world. When the Indus River enters Baltistan from Ladakh, it has already travelled 700 kilometers (435 miles) from its source in Tibet. It comes in through a gorge so deep and narrow that no path can follow it. On the northern bank a solid block of mountains, 60 of them over 7,000 meters (21,000 feet) high, from a wall 100 kilometers (60 miles) thick between Baltistan and China. In no other part of the world is there such a large number of high mountains in such a confined space.
Skardu: Perched at a height of 7500 Ft, Skardu is located amidst an impressive landscape, towering mountains, deep gorges, cascading waterfalls, creeping glaciers and quiet lakes. Skardu is in the heart of a towering frontier land. To its north lies the Sinkiang province of China, to the south Kashmir, to the West Gilgit and to the east the district of Ladakh in India. Skardu is the trekker and mountain climbers paradise. Nowhere can you find such a collection of lofty peaks and glaciers .The Baltoro Glacier, the best known, is that spectacular conjunction of Godwin Austen and Baltoro glaciers called Concordia, lying in the heart of the most heavily glaciated region outside the polar areas. Within a radius of 12 miles rise six peaks over 20,000 Ft. This is the center of the densest concentration of lofty peaks on earth. Some of these magnificent mountains in the Karakoram range are Masherbrum (25,600 Ft), Mustagh tower (23,690 Ft), K-2 (28,741 Ft), Broad Peak (26,400 Ft), Gasherbrum IV (26,810 Ft), Sia Kangri (24,350 Ft) Golden Throne (23,989 Ft), Mitre Peak (19,718 Ft), Chogolisa (25,110 Ft) and Hidden Peak (26,470 Ft) and many others.
Ayubia: 24 kms beyond Murree lies the enchanting hill resort of Ayubia, named after Field Marshall Ayub Khan. A cluster of 4 different villages and chair lift to a hill park greet the visitors. Nathiagali, at an elevation of 2500 meters (8200 ft) is the highest and most majestic of all the Gallis. Clouds trapped amidst pine forest are a common site; pink maple chestnuts blossoms add an unforgettable fragrance to the air. Majestic oaks complete this idyllic picture – truly an exhilarating experience.
Bahrian: At 1400 meters Bahrain is another tourist attraction of Swat located at the picturesque junction of the roaring Swat River and the rushing Bahrain Nulla. The one lane bazaar offers colorful embroideries, handicrafts and local antiques. There are dozens of small hotels and restaurants with their balconies overlooking the rivers. This is an interesting area for explorers, who could stumble on important archaeological findings. From here the road starts to climb steeply towards Kalam. The bare mountains close in on the road, which drops away precipitously to the river. Beyond Bahrain is Kohistan where the Pushto tribe gives way to the Torwalis and Bushkaris.
Balakot: The gateway to the Kaghan Valley, is a little way up the Kunhar River, 72 kms (45 miles) from Abbotabad. The small bustling town with its colorful bazaar and the old wooden bridge over the rushing Kunhar river are set up with a picturesque backdrop of pine covered slopes. The huge boulders on these slopes dotted with countless bullet holes tell the story of the battle between the Muslims and the Sikhs fought in the mid 19th century. Its main road connects the town with Shogran and Naran the main tourist attractions of the Kaghan Valley.
Butkara temple was built in the 2nd century B.C by Mauryan Emperor Ashoka to house some of the ashes of Buddha. In subsequent centuries it was enlarged five times by adding new shells around the original stupa, each stupa completely enclosing the old one inside. Later 215 Votive Stupas were built around the main stupa, all decorated with schist columns, lions with curly manes, eagles, lilies, cupids and lotus flowers. Some of the best stone carvings have been removed to the museums around the world
Chitral: Chitral forms the North-Western roof of the Indian Sub Continent. The rugged Hindukush range comprises Chitral’s Northern and Westerly borders while the imposing Hindu Raj mountains isolate it from the South. This isolated valley was once in the domain of Alexander who marched through Chitral in 327 B.C. The Adamzada, the old ruling clan, proudly traces the linkage to the 14th century Tartar Emperor, Tamerlane. These governors called Mehatars dominated the state for 350 years until about 1960 when Chitral’s statehood ended. Now Chitral is directly governed by Pakistan. The highest mountains of the Hindukush, Tirich Mir (25,264 ft) over shadows the Chitral town.
Deosai Plateau: Known for the rolling grasslands studded with multicolored flowers, sporadic windstorms, haunting desolation and enthralling wildlife, the seldom visited Deosai Plateau (now a national park and protected area) is located in the southwest-northwest of Skardu, at 4,300 meters (14,000 feet) and is the natural habitat of the Great Himalayan Brown Bear (equal to size of the American Grizzly) and Himalayan Marmots. The undulating slopes of Deosai Plateau domain several summer swamps and a unique replica of Arctic Tundra with many interesting alpine and Arctic plant forms. Most species bloom at the same time – during the brief summer of July and August when, addition to sedges, grasses and dwarf willows, many plants grow in tufts and some form compact cushions.
Khalplu: Guarding the trade route to Ladakh along the Shayok River, Khaplu was the largest kingdom in Baltistan. It is located 103 Kilometers (64 Miles) in the South East of Skardu. A dramatic jeep ride of 5 hours proceeds along the meandering Shayok River on a bumpy trail carving its way through the spectacular Oasis of Gol, Kiris, Bara, Ugo and Ghawari all terraced along the steep cliffs and rigid mountain scape. The Shayok River flows into the Indus about 35 Kms (22 miles) from Skardu and the Khaplu road continues on the South bank round the foot of dark grey mountains, their slopes deeply scored by rockfall and landslides. Below the road the sand dunes, curved and fluted by the wind, are reminiscent of Tibet. Khaplu stretches in a wide fan from the base of a semicircular wall of mountain, dropping some 300 meters to river level. The scattered houses set amid terraced fields are connected by paths and irrigation channels. The friendly open villagers always welcome the visitors. The people of Khaplu belong to the Noor-Bakhsh sect of Shia Muslims but are more liberal and tolerant as compared to the Shias. The women are unveiled, like the Ismailis in Hunza. Dominating the valley from the top of the alluvial fan, the imposing palace of the ex-ruler overlooks the village. Its whitewashed facade, punctuated by irregularly placed little windows, support an extravagant four-tier carved wooden balcony up its center. Built 200 years ago, it has a faintly Tibetan air. At 2600 meters (8400 feet) Khaplu is cooler than Skardu, which when combined with the friendly character of the people and the superb walks along the irrigation channels makes Khaplu the nicest place to stay in Baltistan.
DIR (DEER): The independent Kingdom of Dir was absorbed into Pakistan only in 1962. Since one of the main trade routes from Eastern Afghanistan passed through lower Dir, there are several places of historical interest to be seen along the road among which Talash Valley, Kat Kala Fort and Timargarha are quite rich in their archaeological heritage left by the Aryans , Buddhists, Hindus and Muslims. None of these remains has been excavated, but they date from the second to the ninth century. Dir has a well wooded countryside with fine views. This beautiful town is inhabited by the upright, fierce yet very hospitable Pathans whose prestige is earned, maintained and avenged by a bullet.
Garam Chashma: “Garam” means “Hot” and “Chashma” means “Spring”. 45 kms north-west of Chitral, these Hot Sulphur Springs are known around the world for curing skin diseases, gout, rheumatism and headaches. The paved road follows the south bank of Lutkho river through a steep-sided gorge and emerges into the green and wooded valley guarded by a mud walled fort. This is the picturesque Lutkho valley which arcs north-west from Chitral to the Afghan frontier. It is a scenic, stark chasm of barren red rock walls and precipitous scree slopes, punctuated by incredibly green oases in occasional spots of bottom land. Rice and corn crops are watered by intricate irrigation systems, on terraces walled off by generations. A hard land fitting to the large Afghan refugee population, which now shares living space with their native brothers.
Kaghan Valley: Terraced from river to hilltop and covered in forests of huge Himalayan pine, the Kaghan Valley is one of the most beautiful in Pakistan and is reminiscent of the alpine scenery of Europe. Kaghan is just on the edge of the monsoon belt, so there is no need for irrigation here. The slopes are steep, and villages cling precariously to the sides of the hills, the tops of which are often hidden by clouds. Kaghan is not on the normal tourist route: it is for the lover of nature, hiking, fishing and other outdoor pleasures.
Kalam: Kalam is at 2100 meters, it slopes down gradually, terminating in a sharp drop to the main roadway and river. Upper Swat or Kohistan belongs culturally to the northern region as the architecture of the old mosque and the carvings of wooden pillars, window frames and door jambs indicate. Although there is no road from here to Chitral or Gilgit, the upper northern cultural influence must have filtered in along the food trails. This region is the boundary marking cultural changes from south to north. Kalam has a tranquil air and a pleasant climate during the day, though nights tend to be cold. On a clear day you can see the 5918 meter high Mt Falaksair from the upper section of the town. In the north-east of the valley its snow-clad upper slopes and peak rise above dense, lush forests. The river rushes through the town, right across from the old mosque. The wooden mosque of Kalam is the highlight of the whole valley and worth paying a visit.